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How does a collection by one of the world's leading textile companies come into the world? I-teria has examined this topic.

 

A collection of fabrics is a work of art. On one hand, if everything is done in the right way, it shows its visual and tactile qualities. On the other hand, a collection is the result of a teamwork of many heads and even more hands. The company, in which these both factors are at the highest level, is “JAB Anstoetz”, Bielefeld. The development team, responsible for materials production for JAB line, consists of eight employees. They share the important creative and administrative tasks and in order to fulfill them work hand-in-glove with people from all over the world. Thomas Michael Fenn, an employee of “JAB Anstoetz”, has told us what one should consider while designing and producing a new collection of such class.

 

Mr. Fenn, how long does it approximately take to create a new collection - from the initial idea to the fabrics sale? Or, in other words, how long ahead do you plan?

 

It takes us up to one year to work at a collection. Sometimes even more. The time of work is theme- and product-dependent. Sometimes we manage to implement our ideas quicker, sometimes it is more time-consuming. The thematic collections such as “Grandezza” or “Four Seasons” are much more complex, because the work of different suppliers should be coordinated and, mainly, one should take into account that the process of colouration in certain grades takes additional efforts.

 

What are the creative requirements, which designers should meet to produce a typical “JAB Anstoetz” fabric?

 

There are different paths that ultimately lead to introduction of an entire collection. For example, we provide selected suppliers, weavers and printers with specific topics, which they put into life with certain quality, techniques and colours working hand-in-glove with us. Sometimes, however, the suppliers show us their own designs. If we like them, we help to adapt these designs to our needs. A collection should not be designed by a single person - often a great variety of people make their contribution until everything meets our expectations.

 

Impulses to create a new collection come from many different areas. Among other things, from the fashion scene. Certain trends are interesting for interior design, too. Of course, analyzing the collections, which we have already released to the market, we are also motivated to make trips to the suppliers. The like impulses occur as well while talking to our sales representatives and customers.

 

What is the most challenging and difficult part in the development process of a new collection?

 

Each sphere of our work is demanding in its own way. From the design perspective, fabrics should be eye-catching and innovative, keeping abreast of the times and at the same time meeting certain minimal technical requirements. During the production process, coordination of different suppliers having various thematic maps and, in particular, the colour range development, reaches the level when it is possible to recreate a harmonious picture. Besides, many years ago, the high quality standards of products were established, and we still keep up to them. For this purpose, quality control of raw materials as well as the end product is essential.

 

How big is an average collection and what is the difference in its end products?

 

Every season we design about 100 product items with approximately 700-800 individual colours shades. Traditionally, the spring collection is the largest one. Certain brands such as “Grandezza” are always re-released by spring.

 

How close do you cooperate with the manufacturers?

 

Friendly relations with some suppliers have resulted from many years of cooperation. This helps a lot to put new ideas into life because we know each other well and it is easier for us to come to an understanding. This is very useful, especially because we produce the goods for clients from all over the world. However, we are still focused on Europe.

 

Author : F.S.

 

 

RICHMOND collection includes five products, the palette of which is represented by 30 colours totally, © JAB Anstoetz

 

 

All products are absolutely synthetic, however, each of them looks natural, matte and unpretentious, … © JAB Anstoetz

 

 

... the products do not look so synthetic, © JAB Anstoetz

 

 

The materials made by JAB are famous for the highest quality, © JAB Anstoetz

 

 

The fans of woolen goods, structure and natural beauty of products, such as handmade, ... © JAB Anstoetz

 

 

...will undoubtedly find something to their taste in the collection ATLANTIC by JAB Anstoetz, © JAB Anstoetz

 

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